Hats for Blythe and 18″ dolls


I recently was playing around with designing some hats for Blythe sized dolls, I was using a size F crochet hook and sport weight yarn.
While doing this I had discovered that the number of stitches for the final size of the hat was the same as the 3m size hats from my Baby Hats book.

I had a theory and decided to test it out and discovered that the 3m size patterns from my book fit Blythe sized dolls perfectly when using a size F hook and sport weight yarn (that is only for the patterns that require worsted weight yarn), I was thrilled.

Blythe wearing the cap from the Baby Hats book

I then started thinking, I knew that 18″ doll heads weren’t much bigger than Blythe so I did the 6m size also using a size F hook and sport weight yarn and guess what, it works almost perfectly for 18″ dolls, just remove 1 round from the length of the hat for a perfect fit.

Springfield doll wearing Cloche hat from Baby Hats book

Find the Baby Hats book here on Amazon

So now you have more uses for your Baby Hats book!!!

I think I’m going to try the bear hat next!!!

Here is another pattern trio that I designed specifically for Blythe sized dolls


Buy on Ravelry

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Designer pattern swap

I was excited when this pattern swap was planned, I don’t usually get to use other designer’s patterns and I definitely never get to sew any bags.  I was assigned to sew one of Aivilo Charlotte’s designs,  I decided on the Convertible Backpack to Tote since it looked like it would be a simple starter bag.

By the way the bag is currently on sale on her etsy page



It ended up being a cute little bag that I think will be perfect to use as a project bag for portable crochet or knitting projects (but don’t tell my hubby, he already thinks I have too many).  This bag worked up fairly quickly but it would take me half the time if I ever decided to make it again.



I did make a few changes from the pattern for personal preference or by accident because I wasn’t paying attention to what I was doing.

-I ended up accidentally cutting out the main pieces too short so the bag is shorter than it should be.

-I did cut out a contrast for the outside pocket but I stitched it on backwards so the contrast is now facing to the inside

-I omitted the inside pocket since I knew I would never use it

-I also omitted the interfacing for the main part of the bag, I didn’t want to add any more thickness to the bag but the straps do still have interfacing.

-Since I had accidentally cut it to short, I raised up the loops by an inch to add extra room to the inside of the bag

-Finally I decided to thread the ties on so that it’s still a backpack but so that the ties are at the top in the front of the bag rather than in the back.


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Daydreams done in tunic length

Here’s a great way to get more out of your Daydreams pattern.


  Follow the measurement chart below to make it tunic length rather than full length.

Instead of following the cutting chart in the pattern follow this cutting chart


This makes a great top for warm summer days, or pair with a light sweater or t-shirt for the soon to come Spring season.

This dress has 2 back options, you may make the super simple and quick to make shirred back version as shown below, or make the invisible zipper back version.  It can also be either hand smocked in front using the included smocking plate or you can gather the front.

031003Thank you to Robbin for letting me use your pictures.


Buy Daydreams on etsy

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Springtime Jubilee smocked apron without smocking tutorial

Do you love the look of the Springtime Jubilee pattern but don’t want or don’t know how to smock, or maybe you just don’t have the time??

aprondress617Did you know that it can be made with out smocking and still have beautiful results??


Yes it can!!!


Here’s a very bad picture of the top of the apron done with this modification.

First, make sure you have the pattern

You will need 1 additional item to do this modification.  You will need 1 to 1.5yds, 1/2″ wide single fold bias either purchased or made from your favorite fabric.

Note: If you are making it, since there are no curves, there is no need for it to be cut on the bias, just cut 1″ strips and fold in 1/4″ on both sides and press with iron.

On the pattern work through step 9

(Note: If you have a fabric that is the same on both sides I suggest pressing the fold to the right side not the wrong side, that way the ends will be covered later and you won’t have to worry about finishing the edges in step 8, all instructions below will continue as if pressed the fold to the wrong side)

Now from the wrong side run 3 rows of long gathering stitches with the 1st almost on the edge of the fabric and other two 1/8″ from each other.

Do 2 more sets of 3 gathering stitches 2″ apart, so do the 2nd 2″ from the first and do the 3rd 2″ from the 2nd.

Now this is not the time to be stingy on the gathering threads, you will be gathering the fabric to tight gathers you will need all 3 rows of gathering threads.  You will also not want to be using any rufflers, or any tricks for getting things to automatically gather, you want to be able to adjust the gathers!!!


Gather the bodice so it’s about the same size as the blocking/cutting guide for the apron, knot off the ends of the threads then adjust the gathers evenly across, this may take a few minutes to get it to look nice and evenly spread.


Now take your  bias and lay it over the 1st row of gathering stitches and pin in place.

Continue pinning the bias tape to all 3 rows of gathering.

Note: If you have wash away Wonder tape, it works wonders for this step!!!


Sewing close to the edge of the bias tape, sew along both sides.

Repeat for the other 2 pieces of bias tape.


Now continue with the sewing instructions in the pattern starting with step 24 on page 12.


Please feel free to share pictures of anything you have made in my group, I would love to see it.


You can find the pattern here


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Springtime Jubilee

Springtime Jubilee

aprondress617I love how this pattern turned out.  I love smocking and have always wanted to do this pattern and Pattern Revolution’s designer’s challenge got me to step up and do it.

You can find the pattern available on etsy here


The apron features halter ties and straps that tie in the back.  I included in the pattern is a geometric smocking plate with bullion roses and puffing.


The under dress features a Peter Pan collar, puff sleeves, and bound armbands.  It has a back button closure.

aprondress619 aprondress632


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Spiral baby blanket crochet pattern

I have finally released my spiral baby blanket pattern.


This was a lot of work and calculations to get it just right but I love the finished product and so well worth it.

This is a different kind of baby blanket and pattern, it will make you stretch your ideas on how a blanket can be made.  It starts off with making a circle in the center working in the round, then it expands to working in rows with precisely placed increases to form a spiral, and believe it or not, there are only 40 rows in this pattern.  But you will have to do alot of counting!!!!

You can do lots of different color combinations

Try 1 color, 2, 4, 5, 10, or if your really adventurous, make a stash buster with 20 colors.

Note: If you do 20 colors I really want to see the end result!!!

Buy it on Ravelry

Buy it on Etsy

babyblanket306-1 babyblanket308-1 babyblanket307-1

Take a look at these tester’s photos

Image1Buy it on Ravelry

Buy it on Etsy



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Summertime Dreams dress pattern is getting a make-over

It’s been a while since I have posted anything but I’ve been busy, working on new patterns but also updating some older ones.  This time it’s summertime dreams.


Pattern is still currently in testing but it’s looking great.

Here’s one testers pic.  I love the pompom trim she added to it.


It now has computer drawn pattern pieces


It also has great new computer drawn instructions.

image1 image2This is a super quick sew.

Want to know what size to make, take a look at the size chart, cut the size according to the chest measurements then adjust the length according to height.

sizechart-2More tester pics


testerimages-2This pattern is currently available through etsy during testing of the revamp, new version will be sent automatically to previous purchases once it’s available.

Purchase pattern here

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Lollipop Swirl Skirt sew-along day 6

Lollipop Swirl Skirt sew-along day 6

Any questions, ask below in the comments or ask here https://www.facebook.com/groups/656044857778019/

Today we are working on making the optional pockets.


You should have 2 main pocket pieces (in my case the birds) 2 pocket linings and 2 pocket bindings.


IMG_9625 IMG_9627

Lay the pocket fabric and lining together with right sides together.

Sew together with a 1/4″ seam allowance.

IMG_9628  IMG_9629


1st picture shows pocket sewn.

Trim seam allowance to about 1/8″.

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Turn pocket right side out and smooth out the seams, press with iron.



Fold pocket binding in half with wrong sides together.


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Open up fold, fold up 1/4″ on one side and press with iron.



Now turn it so that it is right sides together and folded on previously pressed fold.


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Sew each side.

When turning right side out I don’t clip the corners, instead I will fold down one corner and turn it right side out.

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The I take something skinny and flat, in this case I use my screwdriver (actually I tend to use it for a lot of stuff in my sewing room) and I push out that corner.



Now you have 2 beautifully press pocket bindings with nice sharp corners.

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Fold both the binding and pocket in half and lay them one on top of the other.  Use a pin to mark where the fold of the binding is on the pocket.

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This can be a bit tricky with the pin in place but now you need to fold the fabric so that it makes a box pleat right in the center.


Sew across that box pleat to hold it in place.


Now place the long cut edge of binding to the wrong side (lining side) of pocket.IMG_9652

Sew across with a 1/4″ seam allowance.

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Fold over binding and insert seam allowances into binding, pin in place so that the folded fabric of binding just covers the stitching line.


Sew close to the folded edge.


Finished pocket.



Now decide where you want to put your pockets, on mine I decided I wanted them on the sides with them slightly more to the front than to the back.

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Place your quilter’s ruler inside the skirt under the pocket to make it easier to pin.  Without moving the skirt, place one pin on each pocket.

Now readjust the skirt and readjust the pocket so that it is as you like it then start off with 1 pin on each side of the binding and one at the center bottom.

IMG_9663 IMG_9664

Now smooth out the pocket so that it is even, with no gathers, and put more pins around it.

Sew pocket to skirt, sewing close to the edge.

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This is what your skirt should look like, both inside and outside views.


The cute box pleat pocket.



You have now finished your skirt with pockets, please share your finished creation here https://www.facebook.com/groups/656044857778019/

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Lollipop Swirl Skirt sew-along day 5

Lollipop Swirl Skirt sew-along day 5

Any questions, ask below in the comments or ask here https://www.facebook.com/groups/656044857778019/

Today we will be attaching the elastic waistband and sewing the hem.


Fold waistband in half lengthwise and press with iron.



Open up the fold and sew short ends of waistband together.


Refold in half and press seam with iron.


One thing I like to do that is completely optional is to sew about 1/8 to 1/16″ from folded edge, I just like the way it looks when the skirt is finished.


Pin waistband to skirt.

Note: due to the fact that small variations in the seam allowance of the skirt can make a huge difference in the size of the waistband, the waistband may need to be adjusted to fit the skirt.


Sew waistband to skirt leaving about 1 to 1.5″ open for inserting elastic.


Put a large saftey pin (or your favorite item for inserting elastic) onto the elastic.


Insert the elastic into the waistband through the opening that was left open.


Pull elastic through and have 2-3″ of the elastic sticking out of the waistband on both sides.


Overlap the elastic by 1″ and sew together by sewing close to both cut ends of elastic.


Sew opening closed. IMG_9615

Distribute the fabric around the elastic by pulling on the elastic and sort of turning the skirt in a circle at the same time.  (The constant stretching of the elastic helps to distribute the fabric evenly.)IMG_9616

With either a serger or zigzag on a sewing machine, finish the waistband seams.  You will need to stretch the fabric as you go.


This is what your skirt should now look like.

Oops, I forgot one picture, with seam allowance down, top stitch around top edge of skirt about 1/8″ from folded edge.


This is not 100% necessary, but I like to serge the bottom edge of the skirt to make it easier to hem.  It also gives a clean and even edge to hem.

Note:  If the bottom of your skirt is uneven now is the time to trim it and even it out.


Turn 1/4″ along bottom edge and press with iron.

IMG_9620If desired, turn up another 1/4″ and press with iron, I decided not to turn and press again but to turn it as I sew it.  Sew hem in place sewing close to inner folded edge.


Picture of finished hemIMG_9623Now you have a finished skirt (yes I know my poor birds are flying upside down)

Tomorrow we will be working on the optional pockets.

I would love to see pictures of your finished skirt, you can share them here https://www.facebook.com/groups/656044857778019/

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Lollipop Swirl Skirt sew-along day 4

Lollipop Swirl Skirt sew-along day 4

Any questions, ask below in the comments or ask here https://www.facebook.com/groups/656044857778019/


Today we will be assembling the main skirt (we will be attaching the waistband tomorrow)

IMG_9589With right sides together lay one skirt piece on top of contrast skirt piece lining them up so that  they overlap by 3/8″ at the top.


Sew together with a 3/8″ seam allowance.


Finish the edges of the seam with either a serger or zigzag.

IMG_9592Open fabric and press with iron, (press all seams in the same direction.)

Continue with the other pieces being sure that the same exact fabric is on the bottom each time, (trust me you won’t want to have to undo the seams). IMG_9593 You will end up with 4 separate pieces.



Now repeating the same steps sew 2 pieces together right sides together, making 2 separate pieces with 4 pieces of fabric in each.


With those last 2 pieces, sew them together with right sides together, you now have 1 piece.


This is the trickiest part of making the skirt, now sew the skirt into a single continuous piece by sewing the 2 ends together with right sides together.

IMG_9597This is what your skirt should now look like.


Tomorrow we will be working on the waistband and the hem.

If you missed the previous post, click here for day 2.

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